The only dated thing about the second-hand clothes market in the UK is that stereotype. You know the one. Second-hand shops are dimly-lit recesses full of musty-smelling, misshapen rags your great granny didn’t want.
It is a hoary old untruth which must be kicked into touch. Visit any town in the country and you’ll find second-hand and second-hand/vintage (including retro’ sport’s wear from the 80s/90s) is one of the fastest growing, vibrant and ironically on-trend movements in fashion.
And then you have to add the feel-good factor. Buy something second-hand and you may just throw a cog into the inexorable ‘fast fashion’ wheel which sees 80 billion items of clothing produced each year with around £140m-worth going into land-fill.
Everyone – especially all those ‘different-outfit-a-day’ influencers on Insta – needs to step back from the clothes rails. In the UK, the clothing industry has the fourth largest environmental impact after housing, transport and food. McKinsey’s State of Fashion report 2018 revealed half of fast fashioned items are thrown away within the year (for more of these salutary facts, I urge you to read ‘Don’t Feed the Monster’ written by Paula Cocozza of the Guardian).
At the start of November 2019, I decided I would buy all my clothes from second-hand sources and, in just four short weeks, visited around 20-plus charity shops and pre-loved stores around my own home (Ashbourne, Derbyshire) and surrounds.
The following list is based on my favourites. Just like main-stream fashion, everyone has the shop which suits their look; the real fun comes in finding that ‘secret’ shop which expresses your second-hand style.
Sarah Garlick, 27, runs The Amber Room, which opened on Derby’s Friar Gate in 2017. The business is about to relocate to a flag-ship city centre store on St Peter’s Street, Derby, in January 2020.
Sarah explains how it is possible to love clothes and preserve your environmental credentials
“The Amber Rooms is more than just a shop – it’s my life, my beliefs and values.
It all started in America when I was out visiting my best friend. I’d only taken one suitcase and worn everything so, when it came to a special night out, I didn’t want to go as I’d ‘nothing’ to wear.
We’d been to a second-hand outlet called Unique Thrift Store; which is a giant warehouse full of the most amazing clothes. I remember saying to my friend ‘I wish there was somewhere like this at home so you could buy an incredible outfit and – when you are ready – take it back and exchange for a bit of cash or buy a whole new outfit.”
Back home in Derby, I realised there was a business idea and contacted the Prince’s Trust to help push it forward. It took eight months to perfect the business plan because I wanted a business that would combine my love of fashion with my ethical beliefs about sustainability and fair trade.
The Amber Room sells pre-loved clothes – some of which have never been worn – to people who will love them again. Since opening in June 2018, I have two part-time members of staff. We have a lot of regulars because we only take clothes we know our customers want to buy – be it a Levi denim jacket or a quirky pair of zebra-striped boots. Once an item is sold, 25 per cent of the final value will be credited to the customer’s account; or 30 per cent if they want to spend within the store.
I love second-hand clothes and hardly ever buy new. When you shop for pre-loved clothes, you’ll have something that’s unique and much cheaper than the high street and good for the planet. It’s honestly one of the most easily attainable things that everyday, normal people can adapt into their lives in order to make a difference.”
From January, you can find The Amber Room at 69, St Peter’s Street, Derby.
Contact 07493 200075 for details.
Best of the rest…second-hand, vintage and charity stops in Derbyshire
Second Chance Dress Agency, 19 Chapel Street, Ashbourne
One of the oldest in Derbyshire; Second Chance Dress Agency is a family firm run by Shiela Smith. This is the shop for those who hanker after a wardrobe full of classic, designer labels. On the day I visited, I spied an Acquascutum trench, a Louis Vuitton ‘Keepall’ bag and a pair of unworn LK Bennett court shoes. If you have a yen for the high life, take a look upstairs as it’s packed with hand-picked occasion wear.
Frox Dress Agency, Draycott Mills Industrial Estate, The Court Yard, Market Street, Draycott
The most common thing I over-heard on visiting Fox Dress Agency was ‘Every time I try to leave, I keep seeing something else to look at…’
Holly Saunders has been in business for 14 years and stocks the sort of high-end labels which will get your heart a-beating. I spotted a gorgeous Jaeger jumper for £38 (original RP £140) and the store is so glam’; you really do have to remind yourself it’s mostly pre-loved.
Dare to be Different, 15 St John St, Ashbourne
A curiosity shop; full of proper vintage items from the 1920s right through to 1980s glam. In addition to vintage glitz, you’ll find classic denim, chunky Arran sweaters and new, but traditionally tooled, leather goods. Throw in the odd fedora and you have all the ingredients for a timeless shopping experience enhanced by the delightful staff led by owner Ray Jones.
Pearls and Scarlett, 10A Iron Gate, Derby
It’s been around since 2007 (the owners took over an existing agency called Cobweb) but it’s still Derby’s best kept secret source for pre-loved clothes and accessories. Why secret? Well, you have to go pass through an entryway, go down a passage and follow signs to the basement. If this all sounds vague it’s because regulars do not wish me to give away the exact location. This is the place where high street labels mingle alongside designer goodies. You have to be quick – the lady who brought in her Mulberry tote bag sold it to someone already in the shop. It’s also the place to chat with super friendly owners, Lee and Shona Harding.
Shona, who has always been passionate about sustainable fashion and vintage clothing, says she caters for the ‘forgotten shopper’; “A lot of people get sick of the fashion industry dictating what we have to wear. This is the place they can buy jeans which fasten at the waist and flattering bias cut dresses from the 1990s and early 2000s.”
Selected second-hand pieces available from the eBay store; like these Kurt Geiger shoes (pictured above).
Cancer Research charity shop, 3 Market Place, Ashbourne
Forget everything you think you know about charity shops. This Cancer Research branch is brimming with designer items; I spotted a whole rail of brand new Armani jeans for a fraction of their original price. Plus, everything is on proper hangers and it’s all colour-matched. The staff call this a ’boutique’ and you can see why. Nothing stays in the shop for long; on the day of my visit a classic Crombie coat (which would sell for £255) didn’t even make it onto the shop floor; the sales assistant still had it in her arms when it was spotted and scooped up by a customer.
Threadz Preowned, Market Hall, Derby
Owned and curated by Danny Drummond – this shop-within-a-market sells vintage clothing and retro street/sport’s wear to younger customers who covet original 1980s Adidas zip-ups – and those old enough to have worn them first time round.
It is also the place for fashion that looks good on a skateboard.
Danny says he ‘fell into’ opening a retro shop just over two years ago after being surprised by the re-sale price of some of his classic clothes from the 1990s.
“They sold for more than I paid for them,” he laughs.
“We attract a lot of students who want brands which weren’t as popular first-time around – like Kappa and Champion. Then we get a lot of seasoned vintage hunters who love the stuff as it takes them back – the thing I hear most is “I had one like that’ shortly followed by ‘I wish I’d kept it,’.”
So BoHo Vintage, is an internet-based business administered from Borrowash, Derbyshire
Lynsey Clarke is the inspiring lady behind this fabulous mix of vintage clothing and sleek mid-C20th furniture. What could match a cocktail cabinet better than a 1940s PJ lounge suit?
There is no bricks and mortar shop but Lynsey can offer vintage evenings or viewings by appointment. Alternatively the internet shop is open 24/7 and includes items like the 50s day dress (pictured).
Pie Bird and Two Puddings, 103 Dale Road, Matlock
Somehow it’s necessary to call this shop eclectic as it’s not just clothes, or furniture or decor or bedlinen…it’s everything. Feel free to have a good old rummage.
Risen from the legend that was The Vintage Rooms, it’s now fronted by Michelle Elgarice. Expect to find vintage/vintage-inspired clothing including lace, shawls and French work-wear. Michelle calls her collection ‘Frocks, tops and smocks’ and the only question is – do I wear it or display it? And the answer? Both…
British Heart Foundation, 16 St John Street, Ashbourne
Ok, so it’s a bit of a scrum but boy, it is worth negotiating all those loaded rails as you can find some hidden treasures. On a recent recce, I spotted a Joules jillet, a Boohoo party dress and a royal blue fine knit jumper from the M&S Collection range. It’s also worth a visit for the shoes, boots and handbags.
Treetops Hospice Charity Shop, Dig Street, Ashbourne
True story. I asked a lot of Ashbourne folk for their favourite clothes shop (not just charity) and this one appeared in every list. One lady even told me she’d seen a stunning designer dress for £100, decided she couldn’t afford it and found the exact same one for £12 from this very outlet.
I cannot promise you any similar miracles, but I have always found something exciting within these walls. On the day I took these photos, a new looking Carvela wallet and a Cath Kidston shopper bag caught my eye.
This is by no means a conclusive list of second-hand sources…there’s a whole world of pre-loved clothes just waiting for you out there. It’s time to go foraging.
But if you do find a wonderful shop, please share it with me; I won’t tell anyone, promise.
